Ultimate PJ’s - All Things Lounge - Pattern Tuesday
Welcome to Pattern Tuesday (admittedly two days late due to some unforeseen circumstances). Today kicks off Augusts theme of “All Things Lounge” with a deep dive into the Ultimate PJ patterns.
Pajamas are a fantastic garment to experiment with colour, material type and style. I personally believe pajamas are a fantastic transition garment in developing skills for shirt and pant making. Pajamas are also an easy way to learn how ones body fits a shirt and pant silhouette and is a (almost) risk free garment to practice basic foundation adjustments, such as a wide leg, without thinking about all the other elements of the garment that could be affecting fit.
There are a plethora of patterns available on the market today from both commercial (the five families) and indie designers. Every pattern has its own style and will be founded on a block unique to the pattern designer, if you have experienced multiple fit issues with one pattern designer in the past, it is likely the block base is not quite suited for you and will require adjustment. I have a handful of pattern designers I know the block does not fit me without substantial adjustment and muslin’s, other designers where it is winner each time, and the in-between where minor adjustments (from my common adjustment list based on my body) are required, for me it comes down too how much time I want to invest in this particular garment (and if I will lose my marbles in the process).
Commercial patterns, I like to call them the five families, Burda, Simplicity, Butterick, New Look and Vogue run patterns on a season calendar, if you see a pattern you like, it will only be around for a short season (tip: the northern hemisphere is six months ahead of the south, so keep an eye on the northern trends while in the south for upcoming patterns, and if you miss a pattern in the north, locate a southern hemisphere supplier for stock). As such I will be focusing on independent pattern designers for this deep dive, these patterns are likely to stick around for years to come, have substantial resources to accompany (sew-a-longs, reviews etc.) and personally I find the language and explanations a little more beginner friendly.
As always each pattern will be linked on the pattern name and also image, please show these pattern designers some love. All images are from their respective designers.
Traditional (ish)
Closet Core Patterns
Probably one of the most well known indie pajama patterns around, the Carolyn Pajamas feature both short and long sleeve/pant variations for all seasons. This pattern features a large hem cuff complemented by piping (for both bottoms and top). This top has a flattering curved collar and could be worn easily with a pair of jeans.
I have personally made a summer variation of this pattern, and it is a go to to learn shirt making skills, and suitable for the beginner sewer. Check out my version here.
Size Range: Bust 79 - 152.5cm; Waist 61 - 143.5cm; Hips 84 - 160cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Piping; Topstitching; Cuff hem; Top - Buttoned top; Collar; Bottom - Elasticated waistband; Inseam pockets.
Paper Theory
What a wonderful relaxed set of PJ’s. The Agnes pajama set has the option of long or short pants and features a relaxed fit button down top with a pointed collar and batwing sleeves. The pants are a relaxed straight leg fit with plenty of ease and sit high on the natural waist. The pants have the bonus of no outside side seam for a quick sew.
Size Range: Bust 80 - 142cm; Waist 61 - 121cm; Hips 86 - 146cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Top - Buttoned top; Collar; Batwing sleeve; Patch pocket; Bottom - Elasticated waistband; High waist.
Make by TFS
The sparrow set is the perfect lounging around pajama. It has a boxy cut, perfect for a no adjustment sew and features a button placket in place of a full button down top. The pants have a straight leg with an elasticated waist, added drawstring and inseam pockets. The sleeves and pants can be shortened for all season variations.
Size Range: Bust 77 - 149.5cm; Waist 57 - 129.5cm; Hips 87 - 159.5cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Top - Buttoned placket; Collar; Patch pocket; Bottom - Elasticated waistband; Drawstring; Inseam pockets.
Muna and Broad
The Spinifex PJs are a beginner friendly set with all the bells and whistles. The top features a simple single pointed collar, button down top and dropped shoulder for easy sleeve insertion. The bottoms are high waist with inseam pockets and feature a crotch gusset. Piping details highlight the wide cuff hems and also the front patch pocket.
Size Range: Three bust sizes ranging from 97 - 168cm; Waist 91 - 152cm; Hips 105 - 182cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Piping; Cuff hem; Top - Buttoned top; Collar; Dropped shoulders; Pants - Elasticated waistband; Inseam pockets; Crotch gusset.
Merchant and Mills
This classic set by Merchant and Mills comprises of a straight leg elasticated pant paired with a classic pajama shirt with curved collar lines with a curved bottom hem. This pattern has the option of piping and can be made in both short and long sleeve, and short and long pant variations suitable for all seasons.
Size Range: Bust 78 - 139.5cm; Waist 61 - 122.5cm; Hip 86 - 145.5cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Optional Piping; Top - Buttoned top; Collar; Short and long sleeve options; Bottom - Elasticated waistband; Drawstring; Short and long pant options.
Sew Over It
A beginner friendly take on traditional pajamas. This set features a simple wrap top with a facing finish. The pants are a straight leg with no outside side seam, for a quick and easy sew and are finished with an elasticated waistband.
Size Range: Bust 78 - 145cm; Waist 61 - 127cm; Hip 86 - 152.5cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Top - Wrap; Facing; Bottom - Elasticated waistband.
Jaimie Pyjama Bottoms and Shorts
Tilly and the Buttons
A classic pajama pant, the Jaimie bottoms are low rise, elasticated waist with a drawstring option. The legs are a relaxed fit minimising any adjustment need and can be shortened for all season variations. Tilly and the Buttons also provides a free in-seam pocket pattern (with instructions) if you would like to add inseam pockets to the bottoms.
Size Range: Waist 56 - 143.5cm; Hips 79 - 155cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Elasticated waistband; Drawstring.
Modern
Common Stitch.
I absolutely love this modern take on traditional PJs. This set comprises of an oversized shirt with fluted sleeves and a simple button front complementing a collarless V neckline. The shorts are elasticated and have a simple shape, rising slightly on the side seams. This pattern does not overlap in sizes, and hence grading is not possible.
Size Range: Top - Bust 100 - 145cm; Waist 114 - 159cm; Shorts - Waist 88 - 133cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Top - Buttoned top; Fluted sleeves; Shorts - Elasticated waistband; Optional visible back pocket.
Grainline Studio
The Lakeside pajamas are a warm weather set featuring a spaghetti strap tank with a beautiful split back detail, bias binding details and a gym cut short, perfect for athletic legs.
These are my go to summer pajamas. The neck and straps are one continuous binding, it is recommended (from experience) that you measure your desired strap length otherwise you might be left with a top sitting a little low. Check out my version here.
Size Range: Bust 81.2 - 111.7cm; Waist 63.5 - 93.9cm; Hips 88.9 - 119.3cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Bias binding details; Top - Split back; Spaghetti straps; Bottom - Elasticated waistband.
Megan Nielsen
The Reef Camisole and shorts are a warm weather set, than can be easily worn casually. The Camisole is cut on the bias, providing beautiful drape. The shorts feature inseam pockets and a curved hemline with side rise.
The shorts have two variations, one sitting above the natural waist, the other below the natural hip. The shorts can also be hemmed straight in place of curve.
Size Range: Bust 81 - 142cm; Waist 61 - 122cm; Hips 86 - 147cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Top - Cross yoke; Bias cut; Bottom - Elasticated waistband; Inseam pockets.
Workshop
The Loungewear Edit Ebook by Workshop contains the Linda PJ shorts/trousers and the Lena loose fit cropped shirt. The top features a simple pointed collar, buttoned down to crop length. The short are a straight leg and hem with inseam pockets and can be lengthened to long length if desired.
Size Range: Bust 81.5 - 106cm; Waist 65 - 87cm; Hips 87 - 109cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Top - Buttoned top; Collar; Bottom - Elasticated waistband; Inseam pockets.
Tilly and the Buttons
The Fifi pyjamas are a warm weather set. The camisole is cut on the bias, creating drape and features soft pleated cups, princess seam back and bias binding straps. The shorts feature a subtle curved hem and elastic waistband.
The instructions also include instructions for french seams, bias cut techniques and bias binding.
Size Range: Bust 76 - 112cm; Waist 61 - 96.5cm; Hips 84 - 119.5cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Top - Pleated cups; Bias binding straps; Bottom - Elasticated waistband.
Ohhh Lulu Lingerie
Pajamas are not limited to two pieces, the Evelyn Romper is a wonderful example of a flattering lounge romper perfect for warmer weather. This romper is cut on the bias and loose fitting with a wrap front. The waist is elasticated, with bias finishing and a narrow rolled hem.
Size Range: Bust 86 - 114cm; Waist 61 - 89cm; Hips 84 - 109cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Bias cut; Rolled hem; Bias binding finishing; Elasticated waist.
For the Guys
Thread Theory
These classic PJ bottoms by the wonderful menswear pattern company Thread Theory feature a straight leg cut with inseam pockets and the option of a button or mock fly. If you are a beginner sewer, you will learn a range of techniques, but I would recommend putting some time aside as these are designed for the more experienced sewer (but skill level should never limit you!).
Size Range: Waist 71.1 - 106.7cm; Hip 88.9 - 124.5cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Elasticated waistband; Optional drawstring; Inseam pockets; Topstitching; Button or mock fly
Tilly and the Buttons
These lovely PJ bottoms are from Tilly and the Buttons and feature a straight fit with two length options (long and above knee) along with an elasticated waistband, and optional drawstring detail. A quick sew and easy to fit, these would be wonderful and timeless addition to anyone’s wardrobe.
Size Range: Waist 71 - 116.5cm
Fabric Type: Woven
Key Features: Elasticated waistband
Pattern Paper Scissors
A relaxed fit, knit PJ set, similar to a simple pullover and track/sweat pants. This would suit a beginner sewer, with some care required for the neckband, cuffs and setting in the sleeves. Knit fabric is always forgiving so don’t let the fabric type put you off.
Size Range: Waist 75 - 112cm; Chest 90 - 127cm
Fabric Type: Knit
Key Features: Top - Neckband; Cuffs; Bottom - Elasticated waistband.
